When it comes to cold process soapmaking, some things are absolutely necessary and rigid, like how much sodium hydroxide NaOH is needed for a given amount of oils. Other things are much more flexible, like the amount of water that is used to make the lye solution.
The water is only there to dissolve the NaOH. The math can be a bit confusing for some. But I have a little formula that should do the trick. In our case NaOH is the solute and water is the diluent. So the total percentage always adds up to Want another way to think about it? If you have gr of lye solution in that bowl, there is 25 gr of NaOH and 75 gr of water.
Well, you could use a lye calculator that can figure it out. The one in Soapmaker 3 Software will do the math for you. So will the Soap Calc online. Or you just like doing the calculations yourself. Yay for math geeks! Just think of it as a simple ratio. There are many lye calculators online that work in slightly different ways. Choosing one will really depend on the type of recipe you are formulating, your preferences in style and appearance, and what information you are looking for.
The reason I like Soapcalc for formulating new recipes is that it gives you a lot of information that helps you predict what your new soap is going to be like. We can go in order, looking at the differently numbered sections in the calculator. The first section lets you input what type of lye you are planning on using in your soap.
NaOH refers to sodium hydroxide. While most soaps use one or the other, you also have the option of combining the different types of lye. This allows you to make soaps with a different texture like cream soaps or soft shave soaps. The next section of the lye calculator asks about the weight of the oils.
This part is asking you if you want to work in pounds or ounces and, indirectly, how much soap you want to make. I usually work in grams because I find it less confusing. Make sure to use weight ounces and not liquid ounces if you choose ounces! For the loaf pan I normally use, I normally make my batches of soap with around g of oils. You can choose to make more or less, though, depending on the molds you choose and how big of a batch you want to make.
Some people find this to be too much water , though. If you want a harder bar of soap, you might consider trying to lower the amount of liquid in the recipe. By lowering the amount of water used in a soap, you may also reduce the curing time, the time it takes to be able to unmold, etc.
This section allows you to state how much of an excess of fats you want in your soap. Having unreacted oils helps your soap feel more conditioning. Too much, though, can make a soap soft. How much you can superfat depends on the oils you choose for your soap.
That said, the fragrance section will help you calculate a proper amount to use. Their default number is 0. For now, you can skip the soap qualities and fatty acids section. Now, we can start playing with the values in the recipe oils list.
To do so, choose the oils that you are planning to use in your soap. Click on one of the oils, fats, or waxes and then, when it gets highlighted, click on the plus sign to its right. That adds the oil to your recipe oil list. Once you have added all of the oils that you want to use to the list, decide how much of each oil you want to use. Whether it shows oz. Seeing the numbers there may seem meaningless to you, but the soap calculator will also show you a good range to shoot for.
A new tab should open with your new recipe and all of the information calculated for you. At the bottom left, you can see how your soap falls into the soap quality ranges. This helps you be aware of if your soap will be more cleansing or conditioning, how much lather you can expect, and the type of lather. Once you have an idea of what type of soap your recipe might make, you may want to make some adjustments.
As written, my recipe falls slightly below the ranges they suggest for cleansing, hardness, and bubbly-ness. To adjust the soap to have it fit within the ranges, we could either increase the amount of coconut oil or add an animal fat.
To keep the soap simple, I decided to reduce the amount of olive oil from g to g. I then increased the amount of coconut oil from g to g. By making that minor adjustment, you can see that the soap now falls within the suggested ranges in the Soapcalc lye calculator.
Using this same idea, you can adjust any soap, as needed. The addition of different liquid oil might also help. See my guide to the best oils for soapmaking to get a better idea about what oils to use to adjust the recipe to your liking.
Keep in mind that the numbers given by the soap calculator are just a guideline. Some soaps, like a pure Castile soap , will not fit into the given ranges for all of the soap qualities. That is OK. The numbers should make you aware of what you can expect, though. Some people absolutely love pure Castile soaps for their conditioning nature.
On the other hand, a lot of people dislike them because they want a soap that lathers more and cleans more thoroughly. That said, I prefer to use the advanced lye calculator by Summer Bee Meadows.
Cocoa Butter. Coconut Oil. Cod Liver Oil. Coffee Bean Oil Raw. Coffee Bean Oil Roasted. Cohune Nut Oil. Corn Oil. Cottonseed Oil. Dhupa Malabar Fat. Domba Tamanu Fat. Emu Oil. Evening Primrose Oil. Filbert Hazelnut Oil.
Ghee Butter Buffalo Milk. Goose Fat. Grape Seed Oil. Grapefruit Seed Oil. Hempseed Oil. Horse Fat. Illipe Butter. JoJoba Oil golden, unrefined. Jojoba Oil lite, refined. Kanya Tallow. Karanja Pengam Oil. Kokum Butter. Linseed Flaxseed Oil. Linseed Oil low linolenic. Mango Butter Refined. Mango Seed Oil. Meadowfoam Seed Oil. Mowrah Butter. Neem Oil.
Neetsfoot Oil. Niger Seed Oil. Olive Oil. Olive Oil pomace. Olive Oil refined. Olive Oil virgin. Palm Kernel Oil.
Palm Oil. Palm Olein. Palm Stearin. Papaya Seed Oil. Peach Kernel Oil. Peanut Oil. Pecan Nut Oil.
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